Demystifying Performance Fabric Options

What are those fabrics that are recommended in our patterns or listed on our site?  How do I know I am picking the right one?  What fabric should I get for this pattern?  What does that fabric even mean? 

Do any of these questions go through your head when you are trying to pick out a technical fabric to use in one of our patterns?  Many of our patterns recommend technical fabric to use for jackets, lining, bags, and more, and it can be very confusing to try and figure out, on the internet, what is the best fabric for the project you want to make.  Below, I go through a list of technical fabrics that we (and other companies carry) to help you understand what the fabrics are, how they might feel, and what they are best used for. I am going to link to fabrics in our shop, but you can also find these fabrics (often in a wider color range) in other great shops as well.  Check out our list of fabric shops with a great selection of technical fabrics here. 

What is a technical fabric?  

Technical fabrics are designed and engineered for a particular use, and they generally have a performance aspect such as durability, UV protection, waterproof, etc..  These fabrics have a function, as well as a look, that you want to think about when choosing them.  For our fabrics (and others that you may encounter), we will break them down into Waterproof, Water Resistant, Fleece (warmth), and Atheletic (stretch).  

And I want to go over some terms for better understanding of these technical fabrics.  Waterproof means that the fabric is impervious to water -- water cannot pass through the fabric.  Water Resistant fabric is fabric that resists rain or water penetration.  So it can handle light rain or mist but won't do as well in a downpour.  These fabrics are usually a bit more breathable.

Denier is a word that comes up in some technical fabrics (e.g. 1000d, 400d).  Denier refers to the thickness of the individual threads in the fabric, or how much a strand weighs.  A denier count of “1” indicates that 9,000 meters of the fiber weighs one gram.  Standard garment fabrics are 40-80 denier; heavy-duty fabrics, like for tents and backpacks, are often 100-600 denier; and extremely durable fabric, military-grade items, are higher than 600 denier.

Other technical terms/abbreviations:

• Polyurethane (PU) is a synthetic polymer that acts (and feels) a bit like rubber when used.  Used to coat some fabrics on one side to waterproof the fabric. 
• Durable Water Repellent (DWR) is a treatment applied to fabrics to make them water-resistant, causing water to bead up and roll off rather than soaking into the material, while still allowing the fabric to breathe. 

 

Waterproof Fabrics

Coated Nylon Ripstop:  This fabric is a lightweight/midweight fabric and is waterproof.  It is made of nylon woven into 1/8" small grids that keep the fabric from ripping.  This fabric is usually coated with PU on one side and has been treated with DWR, a fire retardant, and a UV inhibitor.  It is great for ponchos, tents, compression sacks, and bags.  

Gore-Tex:  Gore-Tex is a waterproof, breathable, and wind-proof fabric.  It is made from expanded polytetrafluoroethylene microporous material that coats the inside of the fabric.  This material is basically stretched out teflon -- it has tiny micropores which won't let in water but will let out water vapor (sweat). The material also blocks wind, keeping you warmer.  It is a medium weight fabric and good for lined coats, jackets, gloves, and footwear.

Dintex:  Dintex is a soft midweight fabric made of 3 layers bonded together: the outer layer is strong and stretchy; the middle layer is waterproof, windproof, and breathable; and the inner layer is made of lightweight fleece or mesh.  This fabric doesn't really have to be lined to be worn comfortably.  Often Dintex is made with recycled materials. It is great for jackets, pet coats, and rain pants.

Cordura:  Cordura is usually made of nylon and it is strong and durable.  It is often coated in PU and has a DWR finish, making it waterproof.  Usually of heavy weight (400d and up).  It is used in bags, tactical gear, coats, and workwear.  Often used by military for bags, coverings, and gear.  It is not soft and does not drape well, but it does move -- a bit like a synthetic, durable canvas.

Pack Cloth:  This fabric is made of nylon and often has a PU coating making it waterproof. Without the coating it is still water repellent.  It is lighterweight than canvas but stronger and more durable. It is lighterweight than cordura.  It is often used in bags, jackets, linings, and backpacks.

Laminated Cotton:  This fabric is coated on the outside with a PU coating, making it waterproof but soft on the inside.  This fabric is not breathable, but has good movement and is soft like cotton.  It is 100% biodegradable.  Great for bags, jackets, or ponchos.

Ultrex:  Ultrex is waterproof, windproof, and breathable.  It has a PU coating on the inside and a heavy weight, densly woven fabric on the outside that has a DWR coating.  It is medium weight with a little bit of drape, and it should be lined for comfort and protection of the laminated layer.  

Neoprene:  Neoprene is synthetic rubber (or single-celled foam) that is often used for wetsuits.  It is a durable and insulating fabric that is quite thick, slightly stretchy, and it is waterproof.  It does not have much drape and is considered heavyweight.  Many neoprenes have a polyester-coated side for comfort on the skin.   It is great to use for shock padding, can coozies, mousepads, etc.  

Water Repellent Fabrics

Nylon Taffeta:  Hi-count nylon taffeta is a fabric that is tightly woven nylon fabric (160 x 90 threads/sq inch).  It is 70 denier, so a lighter weight fabric.  The tight weave of the fabric makes it water resistant and it is down proof (so down will not go through the fabric), and it has a DWR finish.  It has a great drape and the light-weightness makes is perfect as a lining for coat or jacket (or bag). 

Supplex:  This is one of my personal favorite technical fabrics.  Supplex has a really nice hand, it feels soft.  It is nylon, but feels similar to cotton.  It is a midweight fabric and is water resistant, moisture wicking, and quicker drying than cotton (also more durable).  Most Supplex has a high tech finish which makes it water repellent. It's great for jackets, windbreakers, bags, tents, sleeping bags, and linings.  

Nylon Ripstop:  Just like Coated Nylon Ripstop (above), but without the waterproof coating.  It is still a nice water resistant fabric that is great for linings, lightweight bags, tents, etc.

Fleece

Polartec:  Polartec, or Polar fleece, is a branded (by Polartec) knitted, napped fabric made of polyester.  It is lightweight, soft, insulating, and somewhat water repellent.  Normally fleece is double sided with fuzzy nap on each side of the fabric. Polartec is a branded type (and industry standard) for Polar fleece.  This fleece is available in several different weights: microfleece, 100, 200, and 300.  The higher the number, the thicker the fleece; and 200 is a very typical (and still lightweight) weight.  Polar fleece has a little bit of stretch to it -- about 30%.  And it is great to use for sweatshirts, jackets, pullovers, socks, hats, and linings.

Polartec Power Stretch: This is a Polartec fleece with lycra for a 4-way stretch.  It has one side with nap and one side without, and has the same qualities as Polartec.  It is great for using in athletic clothes for warmth, like leggings and bike clothes.

Poly Fleece, or Fleece:  Very similar to Polartec, but without the branding and standardization.  Look for fleece that is anti-pill and eco-friendly.  There are many fleeces now made from recycled plastics.  These are usually about the same or a little thicker than Polartec 200.

Sherpa Fleece: This polyester fleece fabric is a little thicker than regular fleece and is designed to be similar to sheep's wool fleece -- thicker pile, very soft, and very warm.  

Micro Chamois Fleece (or Microfleece): Again, very similar to fleece, but with smaller, smoother pile and lightweight.  These are very soft and are great for linings, baby blankets, and lightweight tops.

Sweatshirt Fleece:  This fabric can be made from cotton or polyester or blends.  It is usually a mid to heavier weight knit fabric with 2-way stretch (of 30-50%).  One side (outer) is smooth and the other side is napped with a fleece-like texture.  Great for sweatshirts (suprise!) as well as pullovers, jackets with stretch, and hats.

Stretch (or Athletic ) Fabrics 

These fabrics are often used for athleticwear.  They have good recovery (with Lycra) so they don't stretch out.  They are wicking and quick drying.

Nylon/Lycra:  This fabric often comes as 80% nylon and 20% lycra.  It has a 4-way stretch, which means it stretches both up-and-down and side-to-side.  It is shiny, stretchy, comfortable, and durable.  It is often used for activewear, swimwear, and dancewear.  It is breathable and has great drape.  

Cotton/Poly/Lycra:  This fabric is a blend of cotton, polyester, and lycra.  This fabric is absorbant (does not wick), but it will dry fairly quickly.  It also has 4-way stretch and has good recoverability.  It is comfortable and durable and good for leggings, t-shirts, tops, and linings.  It is not as "slinky" as Nylon/Lycra.  

Ribbing:  Ribbing is fabric that has been knit into small "ribs".  It is usually a little more stretchy and sturdy than if just flat knit.  Ribbing is used at waistbands and cuffs (and neckband) for many sweatshirts, or similar tops.  Nylon or polyester ribbing will be durable, wicking, and have good recoverability.  Cotton ribbing will be more absorbant and if paired with lycra, can have good recoverability.

Merino Wool Knit:  This fabric is a darling across the board right now.  It is a made from soft wool of merino sheep, so it is all-natural, biodegradable, soft, breathable, moisture-wicking, and thermoregulating.  You can wear it against your skin comfortably. It is a great fabric for lining, underlayers, socks, T-shirts, etc.  If it is blended with a little lycra, it has better recoverability.  A beautiful fabric, and usually fairly lightweight.