In this post we will will show you how to add a lining to a pattern for a jacket or coat with or without a front zipper and to pants. Linings are good to add to garments you are making when you are using coated waterproof fabrics that need the coating to be protected by a lining. Linings are also great when you want to add a layer of warmth or water resistance to your garment. Or when you want the inside of your garment to look neat and clean.
YOU WILL NEED:
- Lining Fabric: An amount equal to outer shell fabric requirements. Hi-count nylon taffeta is a good choice of fabric for lining, as is Polartec if you are wanting a layer of warmth. Do note that Polartec has some stretch so you should take that into account when sewing.
- Sharp Needles: Size 11–14.
- Optional: If adding insulation as well as lining, make garment at least one size larger than your size requires, to accommodate insulation bulk.
OUTER SHELL
Construct Outer Shell according to pattern instructions, attaching only Under Collar. (Upper Collar will be attached with Lining.) Do not hem garment, topstitch front zipper edges or apply ribbing, waistband, cuffs, or hem/sleeve elastic. Do not attach zipper flap which goes on outside of zipper.
If using a waterproof fabric, seal seams before adding lining. (Apply seam sealer on wrong side of fabric, on each side of and down the center of seams. Two thin coats of sealer are more flexible than one thick coat.)
LINING
Cut out Lining using outer shell pattern pieces, omitting pockets and other decorative trim. Be sure to zigzag or sear all Lining edges if using nylon. Uncoated nylon will ravel!
If garment has collar, cuffs or waistband, cut those pieces out of Outer Shell fabric.
Construct Lining according to instructions for Outer Shell. Attach Upper Collar to Lining neck edge. Omit steps for zipper. Do not use seam sealer.
APPLYING LINING TO OUTER SHELL JACKET WITH FRONT ZIPPER:
Pin Lining to Outer Shell with right sides of fabric together. Zipper should be between two fabric layers.
Stitch Lining to Outer Shell starting up one side of front, using zipper stitching line as stitching guide. Continue around collar or front edge of hood and down other side of front.
Turn garment right side out and finish hem and sleeves according to pattern instructions.
Topstitch through all layers, using as few topstitching lines as possible if using a waterproof fabric.
Attach zipper flap on outside of jacket according to instructions.
JACKET WITHOUT FRONT ZIPPER:
Pin Lining to Outer Shell with right sides of fabric together.
Stitch Lining to Outer Shell, stitching up one side of front, continuing around collar or front edge of hood, and down other side of front.
Turn garment right side out and finish hem and sleeves according to pattern instructions.
Topstitch through all layers, using as few topstitching lines as possible if using a waterproof fabric.
FOR PANTS:
Pin Lining inside Outer Shell with wrong sides together.
Apply waistband or elastic according to pattern instructions, treating both layers as one.
Hem bottom edges of pant legs.
FOR PANTS WITH SIDE ZIPPERS:
Unzip side zippers of Outer Shell. With right sides together, pin Lining front to Outer Shell front, and Lining back to Outer Shell back. Zipper should be between two layers.
With wrong side of Outer Shell facing up, stitch together along side seams, using zipper stitching line as stitching guide.
Turn garment right side out and apply waistband or elastic according to pattern instructions.
Hem bottom edges.
Topstitch through all layers close to zippers, using as few topstitching lines as possible if using a waterproof fabric.
If there is a zipper flap on outside of zipper, attach according to instructions.
