Sometimes you need to shorten a YKK molded tooth zipper to use in your sewing project.  Or sometimes you want to use the zipper you have, rather than buy a new one, and you need to shorten it.  Sometimes you need to replace a molded tooth zipper because the teeth have been broken. There may be times where you want to put on a new zipper pull -- maybe a reversible one.  This blog post will help you do all those things!  If you are new to molded tooth zippers, read All About Molded Tooth Zippers here.  

SHORTENING MOLDED TOOTH ZIPPERS

SUPPLES:

  • Zipper to be shortened
  • 2 Top Stops (Optional)
  • Toe nail or finger nail clippers
  • Pliers

NOTE: Always shorten zipper from top end.

1.  In most cases, zipper teeth should end 3/4” from top cut edge of garment. With zipper zipped, make tiny clip marks on both sides of zipper at desired length.
image of zipper teeth with clip marks
2.  Making sure zipper pull is at bottom of zipper, cut off both sides of zipper 3/4" above clip.
drawing of zipper tape cut
3.  FOR SEPARATING ZIPPER:  Separate zipper. (If pull tab accidentally comes off, it can be replaced by sliding it back on half of zipper with bottom stop.)
4.  FOR NON-SEPARATING ZIPPER:  Zip pull to bottom of zipper. Put pin across zipper teeth above zipper pull to keep it from coming off zipper top accidentally. (If pull comes off non-separating zipper, it can only be put back from bottom of zipper, so be very careful to keep it from coming off.)
drawing of zipper pull on tape with a pin
5.  Fold zipper to expose each tooth above clips. Using toe or fingernail clippers, clip off each tooth making sure not to cut tape. Remove any remaining pieces of tooth from tape.
drawing of zipper teeth being pulled off with fingernail clipper
6.  If you have zipper stops, skip to ZIPPER TOP STOPS below.
7.  If you do not have zipper stops, pin zipper in place folding extra 3/4” of zipper tape back over itself, including top 2 teeth, as illustrated.  
drawing of half a zipper tape folded at the top
8.  Using a zipper foot, stitch zipper in place, stitching as close to top tooth as possible. This tooth will act as a zipper stop if stitching is close enough.
drawing of half a zipper tape being sewn
9.  Pin opposite side of zipper to other side of garment or bag. Pin in place. Zip zipper together to see that all matching points match. Adjust as necessary. Stitch, following same procedure as before.


ZIPPER TOP STOPS
1.  Put zipper stop in pliers, as illustrated below.  You may use double-stick tape to hold the stop in place.
2. Put the stop on zipper tape next to top zipper tooth.
drawing of pliers with a zipper tooth
3.  Crimp zipper stop with pliers until it is firmly fastened to zipper tape.
4.  Repeat on opposite side of zipper.


APPLYING REVERSIBLE PULL TO SEPARATING ZIPPER (OR REPLACING DAMAGED PULLS)
1.  If you are shortening your zipper, proceed through shortening step 4. Go on to
shortening step 5, or apply top stops after reversible pull is on.
2.  If you are not shortening your zipper, and top stop has a nipple (as illustrated), clip it off with fingernail or toenail clippers.
drawing of zipper teeth and top
3.  Slide single pull (or damaged pull) off top end of zipper. If it hangs up, make sure you have completely removed nipple from top stop. Wiggle gently, if necessary.
4.  Slide reversible pull (or replacement pull) on top end of zipper, making sure
it is on half of zipper with bottom stop. Wiggle gently, if necessary.
drawing of half a zipper pull with tape
5.  Be sure to wash your completed garment with zipper zipped to avoid losing zipper pulls.


SHORTENING MOLDED TOOTH ZIPPER WHEN ZIPPER TOP IS ENCLOSED IN A SEAM
1.  Pin zipper in place.

2. Move pull to zipper bottom.

3. Unpin zipper and clip off one tooth with nail clippers where stitching line crosses zipper teeth. This makes it possible to sew across zipper without
breaking a needle.
drawing of fingernail clippers removing a zipper tooth from tape
4.  Using a zipper foot, stitch zipper in place.
drawing of a molded tooth zipper tape with a tooth missing

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